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Surfing heals all wounds….

May 04, 2010

I never knew how important surfing was in my life until Molly passed away. I have been surfing since I was a kid, growing up in NC, and surfing has always been a passion in my life but I never truly realized the importance of spending time in the water every day until Molly died. I soon discovered that the ocean was therapy, surfing provided me with a strong sense of spirituality, and I understood that I HAD to spend time in the ocean every day or run the risk of being swallowed by such a horrific amount of grief that I would lose my mind. I came to learn that surfing certainly does help heal all wounds.

Tavarua is a little island off of the coast of Fiji. Tavarua (Tavi) has a few world class reef breaks just a quick paddle or an easy boat ride off of the island. I have been looking at magazine photos of the waves in Tavarua for the past 25 years and I always dreamed of having an opportunity to travel to Tavi and surf those waves. I have had an opportunity to surf all over the world but I’ve never had a chance to get to Fiji. A few months ago I popped into Cinnamon Rainbows and Dave Cropper, owner, mentioned that they had a slot open for their annual Tavi trip and he asked me if I wanted to go. Crop has been traveling to Tavi for the past 11 years….I freaked out! I was going to Tavarua.

Tavi isn’t a cheap trip. For as long as I can remember, I have been traveling the world, ballin’ on a budget, and happy to sleep in the dirt if that meant that I could score insane waves without breaking the bank. I didn’t care how much Tavarua would cost, it was the trip of a lifetime, and when I asked Crop about laying down my deposit for the trip Crop told me that I was all set. What?!?!? All set?!?!?!

A group of my friends got together and decided to send me to Tavarua….

Dave Cropper wouldn’t tell me which pals funded the trip, it was a secret, but as we took our seats on the plane from LAX to Fiji Crop handed me a card. All of the folks that sent me to Tavi wrote a little note in the card, and when Crop handed me the card I was close to tears. I knew how much money the trip did cost and I completely understood why my friends rallied together in order to send me on this trip. But thanking these folks for their incredible generosity was going to be difficult because a simple “thank you” just doesn’t seem appropriate…

We scored insane waves in Tavarua, and I can’t possibly describe how phenomenal the entire trip was without rambling on for hours, but I will tell you that I so desperately wanted to connect with Molly while I was on the island. I wanted to feel her presence, I wanted Molly to experience and get a sense of my happiness and, one night, after many cups of Kava I wandered around the island with the intent of connecting with Molly. I planted myself in a chair, on the water’s edge, and looked up towards the heavens. The sky was consumed by more stars than I have ever seen in my life, it was absolutely beautiful, and I sat in that chair and I talked with Molly. After several minutes, I realized that I was trying too hard to connect with Molly and I laid back and gazed at the zillion stars sparkling above my head and I relaxed. It was then that I could sense Molly’s presence because my body was tingling and I had goose bumps. Molly was on the beach with me in Tavarua and she was happy.

I have been home from Fiji now for just over two weeks and I can’t wait to get back to Tavarua. I told Meighan that I don’t care if I have to eat Ramon Noodles for the next twelve months in order to afford that trip because I must get back to Tavi next year. I would love to be able to take both Meg and Kieran to the island when Kieran is old enough to enjoy the trip but, for now, it’s strictly a “boys only” trip. I have been catching up with work, catching up with friends, and I spoke to my buddy, Danny Clayton, today. Danny called me to tell me that some of his pals from VT were in Costa Rica last week and they saw a local vehicle with a “MOLLY STICKER” plastered on the car. Danny’s buddies freaked out and they knew they were experiencing something very spiritual. Just before dark, Danny’s friends were surfing and one of the guys decided to toss a crystal into the water in honor of Molly. As soon as the crystal hit the water, the entire sky lit up…….

Molly does love the ocean.

I miss you baby. Please visit me in my dreams…..

Thank God for pals…..

Bless you all,

Buck

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